This past New Year’s Eve, we decided to break with tradition for our annual party and
settled on simply attending a wine tasting. Wine tasting? On New Year’s Eve? Well,
we were a little “cooked” out from all day food preparation on Thanksgiving and
since our annual parties have shrunk in attendance over the past several years, we
decided to take a break from the usual kitchen slavery. As an added benefit, it is
easier to clean the house and visit the family burial plots for sake with Ojiichan and
Otoosan and flowers and kaki for Obaachan without having to worry about a party.
But who’s having a wine tasting on the Eve? Master Sommelier Chuck Furuya of Vino
of course!
At the request of several “regulars” at Vino, Chuck decided to seek out perfectly aged
gems that would be a nice way to close out the year. And for all intents and
purposes, 2009 needed to be closed out ASAP. Other than President Obama’s
inauguration, there wasn’t much offered by my own Year of the Ox. Therefore Chuck
selected five wines that represented the best of the wine world from New World to
Old World, white wine to red wine starting at 9pm. A dinner would follow of Chef
Keith Endo’s own creations served communal table style like done in many parts of
Europe. There would even be time to return home to experience the “glory” of
illegal aerial fireworks… not that I have a desire to experience downtown Beirut at
the height of war.
The Original Lineup
(with Chuck’s comments)
1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”
Randy Dunn has made a HUGE name for himself through his Howell Mountain
grown Cabernets.
Who ever gets to taste older Dunn wine? On this night, we will try his sensational
'97.
1998 Elio Altare Barolo “Brunate”
Elio Altare is unquestionably the father of modern day Barolo. His contemporary
styled Nebbiolo offers elegance, refinement & incredible balance without
compromising character, nobility or individuality.
1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol “Cuvee Speciale” (Magnum)
Substituted with 1990 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine
Lucien & Lulu Peyraud were the “storybook” wine couple & their passion for wine &
life captured my imagination & fueled the desire to search & discover the WORLD of
wine beyond Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne & California. Domaine Tempier &
their soulful Bandol wines are their legacy.
1990 Sassicaia
This legendary wine estate was the first to show the world the enormous potential
Italy’s Tuscan Coast had for producing world class red wine. The 1990 was a
sensational vintage for them.
2000 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese DRY (Magnum)
Substituted with 1993 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese
There has been no other wine producer in the world whose wines have WOW-ed me
as much & there is no winemaker more revered than Wilhelm Haag.
However, since there were several last minute cancellations which brought the tasting
group down to 14 attendees, Chuck replaced the 2 magnums with individual bottles
which were just as good… if not better.
My Evaluation
We started with the 1997 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon. While winemaker Randy Dunn
may initially come off as a crusty old cowboy - definitely not in the mold of the
young turks of California Cabernet production – he makes Cabernet in the Old
World style deemphasizing concentration and extraction for a balance of fruit, acid
and terroir. This wine evolved the most of the five and started with dried currant and
earth and solid acid to perfumed dried red fruit and a pleasing balance of fruit, acid
and background tannins with a moderately long finish.
Next up was the Altare Barolo and while Elio Altare is considered the father of the
new generation of Barolo producers, he still manages to marry the earthy essence of
Nebbiolo with solid fruit and good extraction without seeming like a New World
wine. Fleshy red cherry, leather and hints of dusty spice throughout the nose with a
rich mouth feel and long finish. Barolo rocks! Great Barolo absolutely rocks!
The Tempier Bandol was next up and though I knew the order of the wines, the
unmistakable “funkiness” of the nose would have announced its presence in any blind
tasting. A combination of underbrush, barnyard and the grandparent’s closet
immediately jumped from the glass… but in a good way. Rich, silky red cherry and
mouth filling richness followed with a nice flow over the palate with a long finish.
This was my favorite of the night as well as many other tasters… of course the Mrs
loved it too so I’ll have to share whatever bottles remain in my cellar.
The last red was the Mrs favorite; Sassicaia. Sassicaia was one of the original Super
Tuscan wines from Italy blending Cabernet Sauvignon with traditional Bordeaux
grapes, sometimes with traditional Tuscan red grapes. Though Chuck didn’t uncork
the blockbuster 1985 vintage, the 1990 was also considered a very good vintage.
Unfortunately while it sat in my glass (~90 minutes), it still remained a closed wine
that only gave hints of its potential in another 5 to 10 years (and it was already 19
years old).
The only white wine of the night, a Fritz Haag Auslese was easily my 2nd favorite of
the night. It had as complex a nose in a white wine rivaling even vintage Krug
champagne with honey, honeysuckle, melons, dried orange peel, petrol and even a
touch of coconut. A rich mouth feel followed with a very long finish. Of course
since I just knew that the Mrs would love this wine, I passed my glass to her after
only 2 meager sips. Chivalry does have its price.
And the Food
I won’t dwell on the food but Chef Keith did do an admirable job with Soft Shell
Crab Bruschetta, House Made Pork Sausage Pizza, Handmade Linguini with Fresh
Chanterelles, Crisped Duck Confit with Barolo Risotto and Roasted Veal Chops with
Garlic Mash. Unfortunately before I could share a glass (or sip) of O-toso with Chef
Keith, he departed to his Aunt’s for toshikoshi soba. As an added bonus, Chuck also
opened another Barolo, a 13 year old gem from Castelletto which had loads of white
pepper and dried red cherry and another white dessert wine, a 1990 Sauterne from
Chateau Filhot which had loads of caramelized pineapple, a touch of petrol and
citrus peel and very good acid on the back end.
Am I recommending forsaking your usual holiday festivities for a wine tasting?
Definitely not… unless you’re spending the holidays in Hawaii, then Vino should be
on your short list. Should you attempt to age some of your age worthy bottles?
Definitely, especially if you like German Riesling. The complexity it acquires after 10
or so years is definitely worth the wait. And Barolo and Bandol is always good
though more so with some bottle aging. And for those wondering, we did have our
usual “Eve” party… just that it was on the 2nd of January. And boy was it a lot less
stressful. In fact, I’m thinking of delaying the party every year… but that would
depend on how badly we NEED to transition to the next year.
